Why does the Wi-Fi die upstairs?
Floors and brick walls soak up the signal, and the router is often downstairs by the front door. A mesh unit or a cabled access point on the landing usually sorts it.

When the signal gives up on the landing, in the extension or at the end of the garden, the broadband is rarely to blame. We walk the house with a meter, find exactly where the Wi-Fi fades, and fix it properly: mesh units placed where they work, access points cabled back to the router, and network sockets for the TVs, consoles and desks that need a solid connection.
The router usually sits wherever the phone line comes in, often by the front door. From there the signal has to get through brick, floors and a kitchen full of appliances. Plug-in extenders tend to halve the speed and create a second network to juggle.
Reliable Wi-Fi comes from wiring: access points connected back to the router by cable rather than passing signal through the air. We have been running cables through lofts, floors and gardens in this area since 1999 for aerials, dishes and CCTV, so getting a network cable to the top floor or the garden office is routine for us.
We work with any provider and keep your router if it is up to the job. Flint and stone cottages, three-storey town houses and new-builds with foil-backed insulation each need a different plan, so we measure first.
Moving or extending the centre of the network often fixes more than any new gadget.
Moved somewhere central, or left in a cupboard with access points around the house.
One unit feeding wired sockets to the rooms that need them.
So anyone can see which cable goes where, years later.
Equipment with air around it and a proper power supply, not a nest of adaptors.
A planned system replaces the extenders and gives one network name throughout.
Several units working together, so phones hand over between them as you move.
Ceiling or wall units wired to the router, for the fastest and steadiest signal.
We test each room first, so you only buy the units you need.
The old plug-in boosters removed, with one network name to remember.
Most homes are tested and upgraded in a single day.
At the router first, then in each room where the signal struggles.
Where the units go, which rooms get a cable, and how it is routed.
Units fixed, cables run and hidden, old extenders taken away.
TVs, speakers, cameras and smart plugs reconnected to the new network.
Some devices are simply better on a cable, and it frees up the Wi-Fi for everyone else.
For smart TVs and streaming boxes, so films stop buffering.
For video calls that do not freeze in the middle of a meeting.
For low, steady lag in online games.
Wired cameras powered over the same network cable.
Garden rooms usually sit beyond the house Wi-Fi, but a proper link makes them as quick as indoors.

A buried network cable from the house for full speed.
A pair of outdoor units linking house and garden room when digging is not practical.
Outdoor access points for the patio and lawn.
The same link can carry garden CCTV.
CCTV, TV mounting, aerials and Starlink, all relying on a good network.

Cameras and video doorbells on your network.
CCTV →
Fast satellite broadband for rural homes, with Wi-Fi to every room.
Starlink →
Level, secure, with a network point behind the screen.
Wall mounting →
A socket where you want the TV.
Extra TV points →
Projector or big screen, proper sound.
Home cinema →
New aerials and repairs.
TV aerials →Why the signal drops and what actually fixes it.
Floors and brick walls soak up the signal, and the router is often downstairs by the front door. A mesh unit or a cabled access point on the landing usually sorts it.
Not on its own, usually. Most problems are inside the house rather than on the line. We test at the router so you know which it is.
Rarely. They often halve the speed and add a second network. Mesh or cabled access points give one fast network instead.
No. We work with any provider and can often keep their router, adding our units alongside it.
With careful placement and sometimes a cable between the units, yes. Flint and stone walls are why we test before we suggest anything.
Steel beams, bi-fold frames and foil-backed insulation block Wi-Fi. A cabled access point in the extension is the usual fix.
Yes. A buried network cable is best. Where digging is not practical, an outdoor wireless link works well.
If it buffers, yes. If it plays well on Wi-Fi, leave it. A cable to a busy TV also takes load off the Wi-Fi.
We go through lofts, under floors and inside cupboards, and use slim trunking only where there is no other way. If you are decorating, we can chase them in.
Yes. A guest network gets them online without access to your computers and devices.
We change default passwords, update the router and access points, and can put smart gadgets on their own network.
Yes. Network cameras can be powered through their data cable, and we make sure there is capacity for recording.
Yes. The Starlink router struggles in larger homes, so we add mesh or cabled access points to carry it to every room.
A mesh system takes a couple of hours. Cables to several rooms and access points usually take a day.
No, a visit does carry a call-out charge. Advice over the phone or WhatsApp is free, and you will always get an accurate guide price before any work starts. Tell us where the Wi-Fi drops out and we can often suggest a plan before we visit.
Call 01296 568243 or WhatsApp us your postcode, the rooms where the signal struggles and roughly how big the house is, and we will arrange a visit.
Tell us where the signal drops out, and we will plan coverage for the whole house and garden. Advice over the phone or WhatsApp is free, and you get an accurate guide price before any work starts.
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